Shwedagon Pagoda in Myanmar
Yangon’s most majestic landmark towers over the city from the top of Singuttara Hill. The Shwedagon pagoda is 99 m high and covered with shining gold plates. It was the centre of religious life for many centuries. The pagoda’s layout is intricate, while the entire complex is vast, occupying almost 50 hectares.
A significant node of Buddhism in Myanmar, the Shwedagon Pagoda regarded as a focal point for military occupation during colonial times and a rallying site for Burma’s quest for independence which later become an important spot for resistance. Shwedagon continues to-and forever will hold a unique position in Yangon’s urban fabric.
During 6 century BC, merchant brothers – Bhallika and Tapussa offered alms to Buddha. They received eight strands of his hair as a blessing. Later, King Okkalapa enshrined these sacred hairs in Shwedagon Pagoda. As Buddhism is thought to have come to Myanmar later from South India as opposed to North India, the original Shwedagon was built by Mon people between the 6th and 10th century AD. The main stupa itself is a more recent addition, dating back about five centuries.
Queen Shin Sawbu raised the structure before her death, she had her own weight in gold studded to the stupa as gilding—thus starting a long tradition. The pagoda was raised again to its current height of 100 metres by King Hsinbyushin in 1774, for an earthquake that caused serious damage to the previous structure. Over the centuries, many additions were made to the present compound such as few assembly halls, monasteries, dozens of shrines, along with four stairways or ‘zaungdans’ which ascend Singuttara Hill from all four cardinal directions.
The 20th century saw a number of local Burmese merchants rising to considerable wealth. Many became benefactors of the Shwedagon Pagoda. One of them was U Po Tha, who donated funds to build Chaukhtatgyi Pagoda in Bahan township along with Shwedagon’s Northern Devotional Hall in the late 1920s. Works were done with Burmese architecture although advance in European engineering made the height and elaborateness of tiered roofing, for example at the southern entry point.
Woodcarving related works were extensive. Many structures were rebuilt, especially on 1931 fire that destroyed many wooden elements at the eastern and western sides. Three out of the four Zaungdans are lined with stalls selling devotional flowers or statues of Buddha. Elevators located at the southern entrance is there for convenience. Footwears aren’t allowed anywhere beyond hill’s base.
Guides approach foreign visitors — their tours offer great value, especially if you are visiting the pagoda with a group. There is a map given at the entrance which is informative. Simply appreciate the spirituality, especially in the morning hours or at glowing evening, when the weather is less torrid. Various smaller stupas, pavilions & prayer posts surrounds the Shwedagon, creating a labyrinth of structures on the outer ring encircling passageway. Every person has a way inside Shwedagon each one creating a personal narrative in the physical space of the pagoda.
Many choose the clockwise walk around the stupa (circumambulation). Others venerate one of the four Buddhas of the current era (of which Gautama Buddha is the most recent; whose relic is enshrined at the Shwedagon). Devotees offer their wishes before planetary shrines. Devotees who seek out cult images are on display here, whereas some see the teachings – ‘dhamma’ and the monkhood (sangha) respectively.
Many devotees see Shwedagon as the Buddha in a seating position, with the umbrella (hti) at its top. The amount of precious metal covering the pagoda is a subject of speculation. Regardless of how much there already is, new layers of coatings are added every five years during renovation and re-polishing of the stupa. For this, an intricate scaffolding is installed for experienced craftsmen—seemingly unafraid of the dizzying heights.
It was occupied by British forces during the Second Anglo – Burmese War which remain under colonial administration before Burmese control in 1929. Much of the adjacent land was used for military purposes, as the pagoda was Rangoon cantonment area. A 1914, map shows the Shwedagon surrounded by rifle ranges in the north, coolie lines of soldiers from India along with artillery shelters in the west as well as infantry barracks for European to the south.
The spiritual importance of the Shwedagon Pagoda—and its insulting re-appropriation as military location by Britishers made it a point of independence. University Boycott of 1920 by students of Rangoon College met here to launch protests. The plaque on the southwestern section of Shwedagon commemorates the students who protested. In 1938, striking oil workers established a camp at the foot of Shwedagon, firmly establishing the Shwedagon as a symbolic site of protests.
On the eve of independence, General Aung San gave a rousing speech to nationalists. Many years later, daughter of General Aung San addressed thousands of demonstrators for democracy movement against dictatorship. In the year 2007, revolution led by several monks converged towards Shwedagon. Today the Shwedagon’s position above Yangon is challenged by tall construction projects. In an attempt to safeguard its towering symbolism, buildings constructed within one-mile radius of the pagoda must be less than six storeys. For further securing skyline, buildings in the line of sight beyond one-mile radius to the south, can not exceed the height of the hill and Shwedagon which is 160 metres. Sule Shangri-La or the Sakura Tower offer compelling views. Structures of a similar height are being built between the Shwedagon and waterfront – though some of these projects were suspended in February 2015, for their proximity with Shewedagon. The Vista Bar, on West Shwegondaing Road, is a popular venue for watching Stupa which seems to glow at night.
While Yangon’s skyline will change dramatically in coming years, one thing is a fact: no one can experience the magic of Shwedagon like the explorers/ travellers of 19 CE. did, when they approached the city’s port in ships.